The Maid of Cefn Ydfa

Ann Thomas was born in 1704 to William and Catherine Thomas of Cefn Ydfa. She had a younger brother named William who sadly along with her father died in 1706. The Cefn Ydfa Estate and lands were then left to Ann, the heiress. Williams will states that Catherine's brother Rev. Rice Price is to be his children’s testamentary guardian. This relationship, perhaps in some degree, will explain the causes which led up to the climax of this sad story.

Not much is known about Ann's childhood other than she learn't to write unlike her mother Catherine. 

During the 1720’s Ann Thomas was approaching adulthood when Wil Hopcyn, a local tiler and plasterer came to Cefn Ydfa to carry out some repairs. Wil was charming, friendly and a true gentleman.  It didn't take long for Ann to fall for him. Wil, as it was customary with tradesmen employed by farmhouses in the neighbourhood, would take his meals in the kitchen, and it has been said that Miss Thomas was in the habit of coming to the kitchen, just after dinner was over and order the servants to do some work outside, so as to give her the opportunity of conversing with Wil alone. 

However her mother Catherine and her Uncle Rice Price had other plans for Ann’s future. Catherine wanted her daughter to marry somebody of equal social standing. Her choice was Anthony Maddocks (jr), a solicitor of Cwm-yr-Isca Farm. At that time Cwm-yr-Isca Farm was just over the mountain, not far from Cefn Ydfa.

When Ann's 'relationship' with Wil came to light his work on the property was dismissed. 

They began to meet in the woods but again when Catherine was made aware of this it was put to a stop. Ann was still in contact with Wil without her mother’s knowledge. Catherine forbade Ann to see Wil, and she was then confined to her room.  Ann and Wil wrote letters to each other. A housemaid helped them do this, it was arranged that these letters would be put in the hollow of an old tree near Corn-kwch, a few fields below the house. Ann’s mother was tipped off about what was going on by a servant at Cefn Ydfa, she then removed the quills and ink from Ann’s room. Tradition states that Ann may have even written notes to Wil in her own blood.

Immense pressure was put on Ann to reject Wil and accept Anthony Maddocks (jr) Prayers threats and entreaties must have been used because she eventually consented to the marriage. Although she consented to the marriage it is recorded that Ann burst into floods of tears when she saw Wil at Bridgend on Market Day, shopping for wedding garments. It was clear that she was not happy with the arrangement. 

Ann Thomas and Anthony Maddocks (jr) married on 4th of May 1725, it seemed that their marriage wasn't filled with much happiness at all. Although Ann was now a married woman she still pined for Wil.

It is said while on trade in Bristol Wil dreamt that Anthony Maddocks (jr) had died, meaning Ann was free to marry him. Wil quickly returned to Llangynwyd to find that Ann herself was on her death bed, she was suffering from a fever. Throughout her last days Ann called for Wil and because of this Anthony Maddocks (jr) wanted nothing more to do with the maid. Eventually Ann’s mother Catherine sent someone into Llangynwyd to bring Wil to her. It is said that Ann died in Wil’s arms whilst Anthony Maddocks (jr) was out hunting.

Tradition states that Wil Hopcyn stayed unmarried until his death in 1741.

Anthony Maddocks re-married Elizabeth Thomas of Laleston within 7 and a half months of Ann’s death. Elizabeth then became the heiress of the Cefn Ydfa estate.

The Wreckers of Dunraven

Dunraven Castle, or manor house as it really was, is recorded as having been a place of habitation from earliest times. It is said that Caractacus, the old Welsh chieftain lived there and also Iestyn ap Cwrgan. It then became Norman, the home of the Botteler (Butler) family of the knights who severed directly under de Londres, the Lord of Ogmore. The name derives from the Welsh Dindryvan, meaning a triangular shaped fortress. The house was in existence until recent times when a dispute arose between the owner, who had wished to develop it, and the local authority who refused permission. The owner then demolished the premises and little of it remains today.

There is a famous legend about Dunraven Castle concerning the Vaughans, a family who came to the fore as the Tudor ‘new nobility’. How much of the story is true and how much is legend we have no means of telling, but it is a historical fact that Walter Vaughan, the head of the family, had three sons who were drowned in the nearby waters of the Bristol Channel. Here is the legend.

Walter Vaughan, the Lord of Dunraven, once saw a shipwrecked on the dangerous nearby reefs. Swimming out with a rope he managed to save many lives. He then worked out a scheme of sea-rescue and took his plans to the government of the day. Unfortunately for many, the powers-that-be refused to consider the plans. The rebuff changed Vaughan’s nature and he became an embittered man, spending his money in reckless extravagance. He married and had several sons but his new-found character  made for poor family life, his wife dying of a broken heart and his favourite son deserting him to begin life in a foreign land.

Later another wreck occurred which Vaughan, as Lord of the Manor, claimed as his. The unfortunate ship yielded much wealth and this set Vaughan thinking, for his spending had depleted the family coffers. If one ship had saved him from bankruptcy, why not a few more? The people living along the coast between Dunraven and Nash Point (especially those in Wick) had long had the reputation for deliberately wrecking the sailing ships of the day, their favourite ploy being to put lanterns on sheep and oxen, thus confusing the unfortunate sailors. The leader of the wreckers in the area was a man with an iron hook in place of an arm, known as ‘Mat of the Iron Hand’. Vaughan fell in with this reprobate, overlooking the fact that many years ago, as the local magistrate, he had ordered the seizure of Mat for a misdemeanour and that, in the ensuing arrest, there had been a struggle in which the wrecker had lost his hand in a knife thrust. Perhaps Vaughan thought that Mat had forgotten, or would not harbour a grudge when profitable business was in the offing: it was a mistake that cost him dear.

Having entered the wrecking business, Vaughan’s fortune began to prosper but it was not long before Nemesis began to play a hand. First two of his sons were drowned. They had set forth in a small boat to do some fishing but a sudden storm arose, driving the craft on to the feared rocks. Vaughan had to watch helplessly from the cliffs as the two boys met their death: and, as though that was not enough, in the resulting turmoil (with all the servants rushing from the castle to watch) his youngest son fell into a vessel of whey and was also drowned.
These events were regarded as just retribution for an evil man. Vaughan must have thought so to, for he began to try and make amends for his bad deeds; but his final punishment was now approaching in the shape of Mat the Iron Hand.

One day, during a terrible storm, Vaughan saw a ship trying to seek shelter near the coast. It might have made it but, as it got dark, Mat put out his false lights and the ship was lured to its doom. Amid the shrieking of the wind and the buffeting if the waves the crew tried to swim towards the beach but only one man made it alive. It was the rule amongst wreckers that no sailor, if he got ashore, should be allowed to live in case ge became a future witness in court: so Mat, being the ring leader, advanced on the exhausted swimmer and killed him. No sooner had he done so that he recognised his victim and his sadistic nature felt a surge of exultation.  He reached down and cut off the sailor’s hand.

Back on the cliff-top Vaughan was watching. He saw Mat approaching and as the ruffian came up to him he saw the bloody hand of the murdered man. Mat held out the hand and on one of the fingers Vaughan saw a ring. Slowly disbelief turned to despair and terror as the nobleman realised the full enormity of what had happened.

The hand and the ring were those of his favourite son who had left home such a long time ago.

The Legends of Porthcawl and the Glamorgan Coast
Author:  Alun Morgan 

Illustration by Margaret Wooding
Images: Dunraven Castle

BRUGEENDE-JUXTA-COYTIF: Pechakucha Night @ Art About Us!

“Pechakucha Format: 20 selected images with a snappy 20 seconds commentary per image.”

Towards the end of last year (October) I was given a chance, along with other local creatives to give a PechaKucha presentation at the Art About Us space situated in Nolton Street. 

What is (was) Art About Us?

“ART ABOUT US BRIDGEND is a participatory arts residency run by visual artist Rabab Ghazoul. Running from June to December 2012, the project invites members of the Bridgend community to get involved in a range of creative, cultural and conversational activities. Asking questions about what regeneration could be, should be, is and isn’t, the project looks under the lid of what familiar words such as ‘renewal’, and ‘regeneration’ might and could mean.”

 The aim of the presentation was to give an informal snippet it to ones work and interests.

Art About Us’ infamous PechaKucha nights have shown us the interests of  Freya Sykes of Ella Rileys, Local Photographers Dan Wood and Kate MacLeod, Luke Biddle of Define Poetic and the award winning poet Rhian Edwards! (+ many more)

I gave my presentation about… you’ve guessed! The History of Bridgend! Here I will take you through each photograph and give a more thorough description of times gone by.

This photograph shows Prime Minister David Lloyd George at Bridgend Railway Station during 1914. An exact date id not given but we can assume that he this was taken after his speech at Cardiff calling for a Welsh Army to be formed separately from the collective forces.  A few weeks later the War Office agreed that the NEC (National Executive Committee) should take responsibility for the organisation of the Welsh Army.

As a result of the formation of this new Welsh Army, during the years of World War One a Tank called Egbert was paraded through the streets of Bridgend.  This was used to raise awareness of the needs of recruitment and boost morale. The government often used events like military demonstrations, public meetings, open air concerts and appeals at the pictures houses to gain support for the war effort.

This photograph is thought to have been in conjunction with the visit from the tank, in the centre William McGaul is making a speech.

On Armistice Day, 1921 the Cenotaph situated at Dunraven Place was unveiled.  Britannia stand at 7ft 6inchs and is seen as a symbol of patriotic nature. To her right she is grasping a sword and left she is grasping a banner: the symbols of sacrifice and victory.

Bridgend Town Hall was erected in 1845 on land donated by the Earl of Dunraven. The hall was handed over to the committee of trustees on the May the first of that year! The first committee was held at the hall on the 2^nd of June 1845. The Earl of Dunraven instructed that the land was to be leased to the town for 999 years and any building that was erected there was not to be used for political use. For a time the Police Station was situated at the Town Hall and it is recorded that it was lit by gas for the first time during 1847! The hall was later used for functions and events until it was demolished during the early 1970’s.

1792 sees the first reference to the Wyndham Arms Hotel, now the Wetherspoons.  This illustration was made during 1795. There is reason to suggest that there was previously some sort of court house or brewery on this site during the 1500’s.

The Old Stone Bridge was erected during c.1425 with the means of connecting the two lands of Newcastle and Oldcastle. It was partly reconstructed during 1775 due to extensive flood damage. 1444 sees the earliest recorded reference of Bridgend, written as “Bryggen Eynde” it refers to Nolton Street and Elder Street.

 The above photograph shows the Welcome To Town Inn during 1915!

As we venture further up Nolton Street we come to St. Gabriel’s School for  Wayward Girls situated at 71 Nolton Street! Pictured with Mrs Watkins, and her daughters Renee and Crystal c.1900’s the school specialised in sewing and dressmaking. The girls were paid a 6d per week.

 1116 see ths earliest recorded occupancy of Ogmore Castle. The castle is occupied by the builder William de Londres, one of Robert FitzHamons Twelve Knights of Glamorgan. The record confirms that the castle had been built by this date, in a motte and bailey type including earthworks and ditches. The castle was later rebuilt in stone by his son Maurice de Londres the founder of Ewenny Priory. William de Londres was forced to abandon the lands of Ogmore when the Welsh appeared in force. Arnold de Boteler is noted to have protected the castle against the attack of the Welsh and for that he was rewarded the castle and lands of Dunraven.

Folklore speaks of the Ceffyl Dwr being present at the crossing at the River Ewenny.

The Ceffyl Dwr is known throughout Wales as a mysterious shape shifting creature, although what form it takes depends on the area of Wales that you are in!

For example:

In North Wales the creature takes the form of a fiery eyed, dark presence.

·         In South Wales he is represented as a "winged steed", taking his place by Rivers, Water Pools, and Waterfalls . Although that he is thought to be a positive creature he has been known as a "pest" to lone travellers.

“It was a ghost horse that always frequented fords and crossing places of rivers and, as might be expected the River Ogmore had one. At first the creature seemed innocuous enough, quietly cropping the grass at the water’s edge. This tempted a traveller to mount the horse in order to get to the other side without wetting his feet. Immediately he has mounted the traveller found himself airborne, far above the earth. At an altitude of a couple of hundred feet the animal vanished leaving its rider to pluge to his death. The remains were gathered up and the horse repeated the trick with another unsuspecting person. In Ireland the horse was called Poocah, a word similar in meaning to the Welsh Bwca or Bwci Bo.” – Alun Morgan

The Castle of Dunraven was built on the site of an early Iron Age Fort.  It is said to have been a Royal-Roman stronghold during the time of Bran, the son of Lear.  There is record of the Saxons burning the residence of Dunraven during 1050, it is also noted that Rhys ap Tewder destroyed the residence some thirty years later (1080) when it was the home of Iestyn ap Cwrgan, the last native Prince of Glamorgan. 

During the time of the Normans ‘Donrevyn’ fell under the Lordship of William de Londres, one of Robert FitzHamon’s Twelve Knights of Glamorgan. In about 1128 the manor and land of Dunraven was awarded to Arnold de Boteler  (the Butler of the Ogmore residence of the de Londres family) after he bravely defended Ogmore Castle against the attack of the Welsh.

The Boteler (Butler) family held Dunraven throughout the 12th , 13th, 14th and 15th centuries until the male line of the Boteler’s died out.  During this time it (15th century) is reported that Owain Glyndwr destroyed the Castle.  Ann, the daughter of Jane and John Boteler  married the soon to be notorious Walter Vaughan thus bringing the estate into the Vaughan family.  During the 1540’s Dunraven is described as a “Manor Place” owned by Walter Vaughan.  In 1642 Sir Richard Vaughan sold the estate to Humphry Wyndham the husband of Jane Carne of Ewenny whose descendants were the Earls  of Dunraven.

In 1803 Mr Thomas Wyndham made alterations to the Manor House as did his grandson Edwin (the son of Countess  Caroline of Dunraven) in 1858! After these works the Manor House attracted the named Dunraven Castle due to its many castellations.

During World War One and World War Two the ‘Castle’ was used as Glamorgan Red Cross County Hospital. (Still in the hands of the Earls of Dunraven)

After the Second World War the Manor House was used as a WTA Guest House.  The property and grounds were rented and run by the W.T.A from the 6th Earl of Dunraven Richard Southwell Windham Robert Wyndham-Quin.  The property was managed by Mr & Mrs Anderson.

During 1100 a stronghold at Coity was completed. The Castle was built on the site of an earlier Welsh Court. It was of a timber and earth work constructed and later fortified to stone. The notorious de Turberville family held the castle at Coity for many years. The de Tuberville family held the Lordship of Coity from c.1092 until c.1380. The Lordship is thought to have been founded by Sir Payne de Turberville, who was one of Robert FitzHamon’s Twelve Knights of Glamorgan along with William de Londres who held the Lordship of Ogmore.  He was given this Lordship in return for his services during the Norman Conquest.

The Turberville Lordship was ended by the death of Richard Turberville, Sir Payne de Turberville's 6th great grandson. He left no male heiress, leaving his sisters as four co-heiresses. His eldest sister Katherine married into the Berkerolles family which led the Lordship to be taken up by their family.

The descendants of Sir Payne de Turberville came to own Sker House during the late 1500’s. The family played a very important part in the affairs of the county as they had held the Lordship of Coity many years before.

1106 sees the earliest recorded reference to a castle at Newcastle It was built by the Lord of Glamorgan himself, Robert FitzHamon. It was later given to the de Turberville family in 1217. The castle and lands of Newcastle became part of the the Margam Estate when it was bought by Sir Rice Mansel of Margam during 1536!

St Johns House or as its more commonly known “St Johns Hospice” is a mainly 15th century building situated on Newcastle Hill. St John’s is thought to be one of the oldest buildings in the area with its history spanning over 600 years. The earliest date known to be associated with the building is c.1425.

The house is a Grade II listed building - "A particularly important building of exceptional interest and of outstanding importance."

It is said to have connections with the 'Knights Hospitallers' these were a group of men that were attached to a hospital in Jerusalem, founded by “Blessed Gerard” during the early part of the 11th century. The patron of these 'Knights Hospitallers' was St John of Jerusalem.

Sometime ago St Johns was used as two houses. (20 & 22 Newcastle Hill). It is known that the Lewis family resided at number 22 Newcastle Hill from 1861 until 1919 when Abraham Lewis eventually sold the property to the Hospital of St John of Jerusalem for the fee of £500.

During 1936 an old bell was found at the house by St John’s Ambulance workers. The bell was found laying in an old pipe which is thought to have led to an old well nearby.

First thought to be a cow bell, the bell was examined by officers from the National Museum of Wales, they concluded that it was in fact a bell of Celtic origin.

The bell is created from one piece of metal - brass. Includes brass rivets and a tongue made of Iron.

Measurements

Bell:

6 and ¼ inches in height

4 inches across the base/ narrowing to 3 inches near the handle

Handle:

2 inches in length½ an inch in width¼ of an inch in  height

1717 sees the erection of the Unitarian Chapel at the foot of Newcastle Hill which was built adjacent to a house which has previously been used for the meetings. This Independent Chapel was the first Nonconformist church in Bridgend. It was closely linked to the Price, Morgan, Williams and Coffin families through its connections to Rev. Rice Price – who was the father of Dr Richard Price of Tynton, Llangeinor. Dr. Richard Price was the cousin of Ann Maddocks (Nee Thomas), The Maid of Cefn Ydfa (which I will go into more detail above!) This connection could also explain why many people believe that Catherine Price (The Maids mother) is buried somewhere in or around the chapel area. 

The building was later reconstructed in 1795. It is now known as the Unitarian Chapel or The Meeting House.

Its original grave yard formerly extended across to the Angel Inn (P.S Pub) but was foreshortened when Park Street was constructed.

Pictured above is Ann Maddocks, The Maid of Cefn Ydfa, this is her story: 

The Maid of Cefn Ydfa tells the story on Ann Maddocks (Nee Thomas) and Wil Hopcyn (or Hopkin).

During the 1720’s Ann Thomas was approaching adulthood when Wil Hopcyn, a local tiler and plasterer came to Cefn Ydfa to carry out some repairs. Wil was charming, friendly and a true gentleman. It didn’t take long for Ann to fall for him.

However her mother Catherine had other plans for Ann’s future. Catherine wanted her daughter to marry somebody of equal social standing. Her choice was Anthony Maddocks (jr), a solicitor of Cwm-yr-Isca Farm. At that time Cwm-yr-Isca Farm was just over the mountain, not far from Cefn Ydfa. Catherine forbade Ann to see Wil, and she was then confined to her room.

Ann was still in contact with Wil without her mother’s knowledge. Ann and Wil wrote letters to each other. A housemaid helped them do this, Ann would give the housemaid the letter and she would place it in a hollow tree for Wil to collect. Ann’s mother was tipped off about what was going on by a servant at Cefn Ydfa, she then removed the quills and ink from Ann’s room. It is suggested that Ann may have even wrote notes to Wil in her own blood.

Ann Thomas and Anthony Maddocks (jr) married on 4th of May 1725, it seemed that their marriage wasn’t filled with much happiness at all. Although Ann was now a married woman she still pined for Wil.

It is said while on trade in Bristol Wil dreamt that Anthony Maddocks (jr) had died, meaning Ann was free to marry him. Wil quickly returned to Llangynwyd to find that Ann herself was on her death bed, she was suffering from a fever. Throughout her last days Ann called for Wil and because of this Anthony Maddocks (jr) wanted nothing more to do with the maid. Eventually Ann’s mother Catherine sent someone into Llangynwyd to bring Wil to her. It is said that Ann died in Wil’s arms whist Anthony Maddocks (jr) was out hunting.

Tradition states that Wil Hopcyn stayed unmarried until his death in 1741.

Anthony Maddocks re-married Elizabeth Thomas of Laleston within 7 and a half months of Ann’s death. Elizabeth then became the heiress of the Cefn Ydfa estate.